From the outset of the first huge climb out from our starting point, Maney Bhanjang, a carrot for our energetic hiking on day one had been hung in front of our noses . Not the chance of a glimpse of Everest, nope, a translucent carrier bag through which we could make out the word 'Glenary's' on the box inside. Glenary's is the famous baker in Darjeeling, and so the contents were likely to be delicious. As it happened, now at our overnight stop in Tumling, neither Everest nor the elusive cake appeared. But that didn't matter.
The walk to several Gompas (Buddhist monasteries), and then up onto the Singilila Ridge itself was fantastic. Sarah and I both thought we could imagine Postman Pat in a slightly more beefed up van traversing the track we hiked; like a higher version of the Yorkshire Dales. Earlier we had found ourselves marching through an ancient oak woodland, watching the chilly wind ruffle the beard-like lichen on the old trees' knurled bark. Postman Pat on the track maybe, but here, more Frodo.
Using the track to ferry those slightly less energetic than us, a pair of ancient Mk 1 Land Rovers. To see them scale seemingly impossible gradients, tackling rocks and switchbacks was nothing short of impressive. The locals call them 'King of the Hills'. At lunch the ponies laden with goods spoke of an earlier part of the track's history, but in fact, the Landies plying their trade maintained and evoked tradition.
Our guide for our 6 days of trekking is Ajay. He's tall, lanky, and a Nepali Buddhist with the most unashamedly distinctive and awful laugh. It's infectious through its absurdity, and regular as he picks up, with his limited English, our jokes. Round his neck he wears a Rudras Mala nut, a Buddhist talisman which he is keen to point out is a 5 ringer, low quality, in keeping with his humble status in society (the high quality ones only have 1 ring).
We reach the first Gompa, where he guides us to a line of 20 or so metal prayer wheels; and for me, a revelation. As I spin the wheels and think about all those friends and families who are going through tough, uncertain, or interesting times at the moment, I realise that in my own atheistic way, I am praying. Not to God, but instead simply using this lovely tactile device to distract me from myself for a moment. Let's hope that my thoughts might just make a difference.
From here we move to a giant prayer wheel further up where Ajay insists that we must pray for good weather for seeing the mountains. Ironic really that his devoutness sees such comparatively selfish wishes.
Up to the next Gompa, 5km or so later, and he takes us upstairs to a beautiful display of the various fates which might await man should he sin while sentient. He tries to explain that this is the 'Paradise System', but I'm afraid that the title is about as far as I get. In front of us, intricate models: leopards dressed in human skin tear at men, other more perfect effigies of humans are joined in intimate union. It's an extraordinary, but stunning piece of iconography.
We reach our destination for the day, and we find ourselves in the kitchen where I started. A massive cup of tea later, and we head for perhaps a glimpse of Kanchenjunga. Another 500 feet up, and we are treated to everything great about vertical landscape: orange tint on the peaks as the sun bids goodnight, the silhouette of the knife-like ridge that we will traverse tomorrow, and below, way way below, cloud lying in dark green valleys. We're so excited.
Pictures:
The kitchen at our Tumling lodge. The food was quite outstanding.
The Landie in its natural environment. This one has been doing this since 1954!
Tumling and the first tiny part of the Singilila Ridge.
Sunset over Kanchenjunga. We'll spare the superlatives for the really great views of it!
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